Guest post by Octavia Drughi of TwoDirtbags

Oh, the eternal and fascinating Greece…Throughout millennia, it’s attracted poets, philosophers, and artists of every kind. More recently, it’s drawn climbers from around the world.

Beyond the splendid beaches and mouthwatering cuisine, Greece has plenty to offer adventure seekers. For climbers in particular, it’s become a top-of-the-list destination to escape winter. The combination of Greek sun, mid-winter dips in the Mediterranean, delicious cuisine, Greek hospitality, and spectacular routes on high-quality rock against stunning backdrops helped it secure a high spot on the international climbing map.

Sure enough, Greece is a relatively new climbing destination, especially compared to other European venues where climbing has been a tradition for almost a century. Modern climbing here can be traced back only a few decades at most, but once it kicked off, it skyrocketed. At the same time, this means there’s still a lot of untapped potential, as well as plenty of uncrowded crags and even open projects for the taking.

So, if you’re thinking about heading to Greece for a climbing holiday, you’re in for a treat! And to help you get started, here’s an intro to the most famous climbing destinations this charming, sunny country has to offer:

Kalymnos

Without a doubt, Kalymnos is one of the world’s most famous climbing destinations, if not the most popular when it comes to island climbing. Pictures of stalactites against the backdrop of the Mediterranean and surrounding islands are all so easy to recognize, even among those who’ve never been there, while images of Grande Grotta are enough to convince climbers to jump on a plane asap.

Kalymnos is a fairly small island in the southeastern Aegean Sea, closer to Turkey than mainland Greece, that’s simply dotted with cliffs – huge caves, sheer vertical walls, small crags, you name it! There are currently 4,500+ routes here. Mind-blowing, right?

In terms of difficulty, Kalymnos caters to all levels. Above all else, it is a paradise for beginners, since almost half the routes on the island are up to 6b+. It’s also a fabulous place to take your climbing to the next level thanks to the overwhelming density of routes, to which the thickness of the Kalymnos guidebook stands as a testament. Furthermore, there are 700+ routes from 7b to 9a, as well as some open projects.

Perhaps contrary to what you might have thought, it is possible to climb in Kalymnos all year round. There are a few sectors that are always in the shade, and if you pick those during summer, climbing is very much possible thanks to the refreshing Mediterranean breeze. That said, the absolute best time of year to climb in Kalymnos is autumn, from September to November. There is little rainfall during this time, and the temperatures are pleasant. Winter is also good, as there are many sunny crags that are perfect on cold days. Spring is less crowded, and the temperatures are pleasant, but the downside is that some of the tufas and stalactites can be wet if there’s been lots of rainfall in winter.

>> For more information on climbing in Kalymnos and the printed guidebook, check out the official website

Leonidio

Image credit: TwoDirtbags.com

A couple of decades ago, no one even heard of Leonidio. Today, it is all the rage.

In the 80s, local climbers had their first attempts at exploring the spectacular Kokkinovrachos (“Red Rocks”) above town, but it wasn’t until 2011 that experienced climbers and the local community began to truly develop this area. Soon after, everyone was talking about it.

But what led to its success? To begin with, you have the high-quality orange and gray limestone, tufa-ridden crags, sheer vertical cliffs, jug fests, and the amazing variety that secured its place as a premier winter climbing destination. Then you have the annual festivals and media coverage that helped cement its position on the international climbing scene.

On the eastern coast of the Peloponnese, about a 3-hour drive south of Athens, Leonidio is a charming little town nestled at the mouth of the Dafnon River, against the backdrop of the imposing Kokkinovrachos (“Red Rocks”). The climbing is scattered all around and above town, as well as along the Dafnon River Valley, from almost sea level up to an elevation of 900 meters. There are sectors in the sun and sectors with permanent shade, which means that you can always find someplace to climb no matter the weather.

There are 2,500+ routes and counting, and the bulk is in the 6a to 7c range. That’s quite something, as it offers a playground for beginners as well as seasoned climbers. If you love tufas, you’ll get your share. If you want to become a kneebar master, this is the place to practice. If you like steep routes, there are plenty. At the same time, there are loads of vertical crags, technical and crimpy. There are short, bouldery routes as well as long, never-ending journeys to the sky.

Come wintertime, Leonidio is simply bustling. There are restaurants and bars, climbing shops, numerous small businesses, and regular events. In the evenings, the streets are filled with climbers.

The best time to climb in Leonidio is from autumn to spring, with November and the winter holidays being the most crowded time of year. Overall, the weather doesn’t stay bad for long; the rock tends to dry very fast, and there are quite a few rainproof sectors, too.

>> For more information, check out this article about climbing in Leonidio and start planning an epic trip.

Kyparissi

Image credit: TwoDirtbags.com

About an hour and a half drive south of Leonidio, Kyparissi is a sleepy coastal town during the off-season. As opposed to its more famous neighbor, Kyparissi is not crowded, and for some, herein lies its appeal. In fact, it almost seems deserted in winter, apart from a few motivated climbers.

The most famous climbing sector in Kyparissi is Watermill, all thanks to its short approach and variety of grades and styles. It also gets the most traffic, so some of the routes are a bit polished here. At the same time, there are a couple of sectors that are reserved for beginners, one of them being Kastraki, which is right in town.

However, it is the Babala sector that gets the elite all excited. A demanding approach is rewarded with kinglines and mostly five-star testpieces on what is often said to be some of the best tufa climbing on the planet; and all against the stunning backdrop of the Mediterranean. Sure enough, this place is reserved for strong climbers, as the routes, over 120 of them, are mostly from 7c to 8b, and all the way to 9a.

You’ll also find some impressive sectors farther up on the road leading to the plateau, with mostly routes in the higher grades, where chances are you’ll be all by yourself. Most of these sectors only get sun in the morning and, when combined with the higher altitude, are great on warmer days.

The best time to climb in Kyparissi is autumn. That is, if you want to take full advantage of all it has to offer. Once the winter rains kick in, most tufas get wet and can stay that way for months.

>> For more information, check out this article about climbing in Kyparissi and plan your trip.

Manikia

Image credit: TwoDirtbags.com

Manikia was unknown until the 2022 Petzl RocTrip. Now, it’s an up-and-coming winter climbing destination with a unique, authentic Greek feel.

On Evia, Greece’s second-largest island, Manikia is a sleepy little village tucked in the mountains and surrounded by rocks. Lots of rocks. While it may be on an island, it’s all so easy to get there thanks to the bridge that connects it to the mainland. Only a two-hour drive north of Athens, you can enjoy non-touristy Greek island vibes without any hassle.

Spectacular tufa-ridden walls, imposing overhangs, steep caves, vertical faces, and an abundance of styles on all angles await. You’ll find sectors with routes only in the lower grades, as well as sectors where, except for a couple of warm-ups, there are only routes in the higher grades. Then, of course, there are crags that have a bit of everything. Some cliffs are at a lower altitude while others are higher up, thus receiving a cooler breeze, so it’s not too difficult to plan according to the weather.

One of the greatest appeals of this place is that it’s uncrowded. At most sectors, the rock is not polished yet; there’s not even any chalk on some routes. The whole place is so quiet – there are no bars, only a couple of taverns, and except for a few climbers at the crags and the occasional locals, you’ll hardly see any people.

The best time to go climbing in Manikia is autumn and winter. Most of the cliffs in Manikia are south-facing, which makes them excellent on cold days. That said, there is one spectacular north-facing crag, North Face, with aesthetic routes on stellar limestone, which is best in autumn. Do take note that after periods of heavy rain, tufas can stay wet for a long time.

>> For more information, check out this article about climbing in Manikia and get ready to plan your adventure.

Meteora

An emblematic climbing destination, Meteora is the stuff of multi-pitch dreams. Jutting out from the Plains of Thessaly in Central Greece, these dark conglomerate towers are hard to resist.

There are 800+ multi-pitch and single-pitch routes spread across the many towers and pillars, mostly four to six pitches long. This compact conglomerate is characterized by pulling on pebbles, small and large, as well as the crimpy empty dishes left by them. It’s a pretty straightforward and enjoyable style, and the routes here are generally not that hard grade-wise. It’s all about the fun of the climb and the views at the top.

However, Meteora is notorious for its spaced bolting. Therefore, if you are not comfortable climbing past the bolt, you should assess your climbs and grades accordingly. But if you love the thrill of the exposure, this is the place for you. Generally speaking, the harder sections on the climb will be well protected, but the easier ones will be run out. For sure, this is an adventurous style of climbing.

You will find trad climbing routes that require a full trad rack, as well as many bolted multi-pitches where all you need are quickdraws. And while Meteora is a mecca for multi-pitch climbers, there are some sport climbing routes here, too.
The best time to climb in Meteora is autumn and spring, with the former having the most stable weather. Winter can get a bit too cold and rainy, while summer can be too hot.

Athens

Did you know that there are over 2,000 climbing routes around Athens?

Indeed, Athens can prove an excellent base camp for a climbing trip that mixes small and uncrowded, yet world-class crags with visiting archaeological sites, chilling in pristine nature, and some beach time.

There are a chuckload of climbing spots near Athens, and most of the routes are in the 5a to 7a range. It is a beginner-friendly place, but there are some notable crags where strong climbers will find great rock quality, tufas, pockets, overhangs, vertical walls, and even marble rock with exceptional routes up to 8c. What’s more, it is possible to climb near Athens all year round, as there are both sunny and shady crags, at lower or higher altitudes. No wonder Athenian climbers are so strong!

The Attica Plateau and its mountains hold many treasures. Not far from Athens, Sesi is a stretch of limestone that lacks the height but certainly makes up for it in tranquility, stellar routes, tiny crimps, variety of grades, and easy access. In southern Attica, near Lavrio, Chaos is a massive sinkhole with crimpy, red limestone and an old-school kind of climbing mostly in the higher grades.

Mavrosouvala is the place for hard climbing near Athens, a tufa kingdom that’s said to rival Kalymnos in quality of tufas and stalactites. An hour’s drive north of Athens, in the middle of nowhere, there are over 50 routes here on steep, red and yellow limestone, mostly long and in the higher grades.

And if you’re up for a truly unique experience, go to Spilia Daveli, high up on the Pedeli Mountain, where you’ll find the ancient Acropolis stone pit that now has 30+ impressive routes on cracks and technical faces.

About the Author:
Octavia Drughi is a climber and writer, proud owner of TwoDirtbags.com. Her lifestyle revolves around climbing and she does everything in her power to spend more time outdoors and travel to new destinations. She is particularly drawn to remote, off-the-radar climbing areas, and takes her time to fully immerse herself in the local culture and vibes.

Note: this article includes links that may qualify as affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission